5/27-6/1 被我偷換概念的「波羅的海三小國」之旅 My twisted "Baltic States" trip
在一月去了觀光大國西班牙之後，便一直想要再跑一次歐洲、但去相對不熱門的國家，於是波羅的海三小國就成了我這趟旅行的目標。因為只有短短的六天，我只好把位在最南邊、距離比較遠的立陶宛去掉（預計留在未來和波蘭一同造訪），然後加上與愛沙尼亞首都塔林只有一海之隔的芬蘭赫爾辛基，最後成了這趟被我自己偷換概念的波羅的海三小國（拉脫維亞、愛沙尼亞、芬蘭）之旅。
當初決定要去，主要是因為覺得那裡好像觀光客比較少一些，加上物價在歐洲來講相對低廉，但去了之後才發現這些國家值得一去的理由太多了，若僅僅是為了避開人潮或省錢而去，那完全是低估了那裡豐富的文化底蘊與迷人風景。
The different "Baltic States"
After my Spain trip in January, I had been thinking about another Europe trip to some "less popular" countries. The Baltic States was soon chosen as my Memorial Day weekend destination, as these countries are less crowded and more affordable. Nevertheless, as I stepped on my trip, I quickly realized they possess much more than just relative tranquilness and low cost. Their cultural richness alone can make them a must-go in my list.
While calling it "the Baltic States trip", I actually dropped Lithuania (which is in the further south) and added Finland (which is not far from Estonia's capital Tallinn) due to my time constraint. In this album/blog, what I refer to as the Baltic States are: Latvia, Estonia, and Finland.
Vecrīga (Old Riga), Riga, Latvia | 拉脫維亞·里加·舊城
里加是拉脫維亞的首都，舊城區幸運的沒有受前蘇聯統治太大影響，保留了中世紀以來的面貌，走在街上彷彿每一間房子都有一個故事，每一棟建築都值得拍照；也是因為如此，作為一個世界文化遺產，大多數時間都是遊人如織的。但我拜訪的時候是個禮拜天的早晨，城裡各個角落不時響起教堂的鐘聲，多數遊客都還在沈睡，Livu Square裡的露天餐廳也多還未營業，僅有寥寥幾人，整個城區難得顯得清新幽靜。
Riga is the capital of Latvia, as well as one of the best preserved Medieval towns in Europe. The entire old town is an UNESCO-designated world heritage site. Many cathedrals, shops and houses have been there and unaltered since the thirteen century.
I toured the old town on a Sunday morning, when the entire city was still sleeping. Businesses were still shut down except few. The city was filled with bell sounds from cathedrals, reminding people that was a Sunday (although it only matters to very few of them).
Centrāltirgus (Central Market), Riga, Latvia | 拉脫維亞·里加·中央市場
市場通常是窺見一個地方真實生活的最佳去處，當然也是飽餐一頓的理想地點。在烘培店前，看著那些美國絕對找不到的豐富口味，還有親民的價錢，一口氣買上十個似乎都不為過。
Wherever I go, I always like to check out public markets. There is no better place to observe the real life of a place than a market. Attracted by fancy (while incredibly cheap) pastries at a shop, I grabbed a few as lunch without hesitation.
Turaida Castle, Sigulda, Latvia | 拉脫維亞·錫古爾達·Turaida Castle
13世紀的歐洲，萬人參與的戰爭便是大戰，路邊不起眼的小丘就能決定一個國家的興亡，這是當今被美化成童話場景的城堡最早的存在價值：防禦。當時的波羅的海並沒有完整的王國，而是在教會勢力進入之後，由當地主教與及所屬的兵力掌控，Turaida Castle就建於當時。
800年前所蓋的建築，現在當然已經毀壞不少，照片中所見的完整外觀是後來重修的結果。一旁蜿蜒的曲流則沒有改變，800年來仍然照著原本的樣貌緩緩流動著，彷彿已經看破了一切的政權更迭。
Turaida Castle played a vital role in defense in the thirteen century. Back then, it was a key spot that determined the fate of a nation. The castle had fallen into ruins in the next few centuries, and was restored as a tourist spot in early twentieth century, while the river next to it has stayed intact and silent over the course of 800 years.
Svētā Jāņa baznīca (Saint John Cathedral), Cēsis, Latvia | 拉脫維亞·塞希斯·聖約翰大教堂
過去對三小國不了解的我總以為這幾個國家的主要宗教和俄羅斯一樣是東正教（Orthodox），一直到真正抵達之後，才發現其實在俄羅斯的勢力增強之前，影響這些國家最鉅者是日耳曼人和瑞典人。因此在16世紀的宗教改革風潮橫掃歐洲之後，三小國也和北歐與德國一樣，成為第一波轉為基督教（新教，Protestantism）的國家，教派是路德宗（Lutheran），也就是現在慣稱的信義會。
即使轉變成了基督教，這裡的教會仍然沿用著過去屬於羅馬教廷時期的傳統，信仰的中心依然是城鎮中心的一座大教堂，主教的制度也依然存在，但教堂不大多不像南歐那樣飛簷畫壁，反而已斑駁泛黃的外牆、模糊素色的玻璃說明它們的歷史。
喔，對了，還有另外一點是三小國和北歐國家很像的：他們都是歷史上最早轉變成基督教的國家，今天則都是全歐洲教會出席率最低的國家。
You may wonder as I had: what is the primary religion/denomination of Latvia? Orthodoxy? Catholicism? The answer is: Protestantism, and more specifically, Lutheranism.
Before Russia gained its power few centuries ago, Latvia was mostly influenced by German and Scandinavian cultures. As a result, soon after Martin Luther led a great number of German churches to depart from Roman Catholicism, the churches in Lativia followed and formed their own state church, Evangelical Lutheran Church of Latvia.
Unlike the cathedrals with magnificent relief and stain glass in southern Europe, churches here look aged and ragged, although the bell towers are as tall as those elsewhere. Sadly, those earliest Protestant countries are now nations with the lowest church attendance.
晚餐：鱒魚佐馬鈴薯泥；早餐：各式各樣的香腸和燻肉。
Dinner: trout, served with mashed potato; breakfast: various sausages and smoked meats.
Cēsis Castle, Cēsis, Latvia | 拉脫維亞·塞西斯·塞西斯城堡
塞西斯城堡和前面的Turaida Castle以及聖約翰大教堂一樣，都是十三世紀的作品，也都經歷過數次戰亂。在二十世紀前期，已經傾圮的城堡被認為有歷史和觀光價值，因此重新補強並且重建缺失部分。
這個城堡的旅遊體驗相當獨特，不像Turaida那樣碉堡裡還有照明和空調，這裡什麼都沒有而且一片漆黑，每個遊客進入前會拿到一盞蠟燭燈，然後在沒有任何導覽人員陪同下自己摸黑進入碉堡之中穿梭。當天早上我是第一個進入城堡的遊客，說實在剛開始真的有點毛毛的，但仔細想想，當年使用這座城堡的人們不也是這樣生活的嗎？習慣了黑暗之後反而覺得還挺好玩的。
Cēsis Castle functioned similarly as Turaida Castle, and was restored for the same purpose. A memorable experience of the castle visit is: there is no light inside. You have to navigate the dark rooms and spiral stairs with a candle provided by the castle museum. While feeling creepy in the beginning, I soon realized that was the best way to explore the castle, as what people centuries back would do.
Railway Station, Valga, Estonia | 愛沙尼亞·Valga·火車站
我搭著無空調、帶有直落式廁所的火車一路向北，來到這個拉脫維亞和愛沙尼亞的交界處。如同所有申根區（Schengen Area）內的國家邊界，這裡是沒有邊境檢查的，甚至看不出這裡是兩個國家的交界處（除了兩國的火車外觀不太一樣之外）。一個島式月台，一邊停著載著我到這裡的拉脫維亞火車，另一邊停著我將要搭上的愛沙尼亞火車，五秒鐘內可以轉車兼出入境完畢。
在大城市以外的地方所見，大多數是標準中歐田園和前蘇聯工業化建物的混合景色。
A two-hour non-AC train ride brought me to the Lativia-Estonia border. Except a few small towns, the entire trip was with forest and farmlands. At the border town Valga, there is no border control. The Lativian train and the Estonian train would stop on either side of a platform. Going from one country to another simply means to walk across the 2-meter wide platform.
Chimneys, cargo trains and warehouses are relics of the Soviet industrialization.
Tartu, Estonia | 愛沙尼亞·塔爾圖
塔爾圖是愛沙尼亞東南方的大學城，也是個建築充滿日耳曼風格影響的老城，位在市中心的Town Hall色調相當溫暖而熱情，（也正好是我最喜歡的粉紅色，哈哈。）
塔爾圖大教堂（Tartu toomkirik; Tartu Cathedral）是歐洲知名教堂中的異類，它在十六世紀因為宗教改革（Protestant Reformation）而被當時反對羅馬教廷的新教徒摧毀之後，就一直沒有重建，僅有原本神壇所在的圓弧部分被改建為大學的圖書館，其他部分則繼續以雄偉的廢墟之姿吸引觀光客。
As a college town, Tartu is vibrant and neat. German influence can be observed in its architecture. Particularly, I really like the pick town hall (which is my favorite color) standing at the center of the old city.
Tartu cathedral has stayed as a ruin since the sixteen century, when it was destroyed by Protestants during the reformation. The front sanctuary was later renovated as a university library, while the rest of the building stay uncovered and weathered, and became an iconic symbol of this city.
Rahva Raamat, Tartu, Estonia | 愛沙尼亞·塔爾圖·人民書店
這是一家愛沙尼亞的連鎖書店，也是我用來打發晚上時間的地方。不像美國那些書越來越少、人潮越來越冷清的Barnes & Noble，這裡的書店可是活躍的很，內部還充滿著獨樹一格的裝飾。
Unlike the only remaining US-nationwide bookstore Barnes and Noble, the Estonian equivalent (Rahva Raamat, which means "people's bookstore") is still vibrant and full of books and arts. Here I started looking for Estonian maps and children books, which I could bring back as souvenirs.
Eesti Vabaõhumuuseum (Estonian Open Air Museum), Tallinn, Estonia | 愛沙尼亞·塔林·露天博物館
這裡應該是最能讓觀光客了解愛沙尼亞傳統生活以及各地差異的地方了。園區很大，收藏了來自全國各地的數十棟民居，全部逛一圈下來至少得步行4公里。許多民居內都有穿著傳統服飾的當地人幫忙維護和解說。一路看下來很快就能夠發現各地的差異：以農牧業為主的內陸民房通常相當寬闊，漁業為主的海島上則多是狹促且帶有防風牆的斗室。
The next morning, I rode an early morning train to Tallinn. The train in Estonia was fast and reliable, but my first impression of Tallinn was not quite positive: there was no place to buy the transit card at the central station, and the only place I could get it is at an unnoticeable vending booth across street.
After a 30-minute delay due to the ticket problem, I arrived at the Estonian Open Air Museum. The specious park possess residences collected from all over the country. An walk-through trip is longer than 4 km. Here you can see some interesting contrasts - for example, the island houses are packed and encircled by stone walls, whereas the inland farm houses are more spaced.
Paldiski, Estonia | 愛沙尼亞· Paldiski
帶著對於前蘇聯樣板建築的好奇心，我搭火車來到這個曾是「民人禁入」的軍事基地的小城。蘇聯在這裡建立基地，為的是獲得波羅的海的制海權。即使脫離前蘇聯已近30年，所有的建築仍然保持著當時呆板乏味的色調，即使是新開的餐廳，竟然都只敢在玻璃上貼上白底黑字的幾個字母，不知道是因為怕破壞地景的協調性，還是在這裡住久了審美觀也改變了。
Paldiski is not really a tourist destination, but I decided to go in search for the former Soviet monotone architecture. The town was once an forbidden city - a navy base, where the Soviet Union accessed to the Baltic. Surprisingly almost 30 years after the dissolution of the Soviet Union, the entire city was still monotonous and depressing. Even a sushi restaurant is only marked by five black-and-white single-letter posters on the window.
Old Town, Tallinn, Estonia | 愛沙尼亞·塔林·舊城
和里加舊城一樣名列世界遺產，差異之處在於這裡的城牆和碉堡保存得更加完整，也因為相當接近芬蘭赫爾辛基，觀光化的程度更高一些。從主要入口一進入，右邊馬上出現中文招牌，是家賣川菜的餐館兼專做中國遊客生意的民宿。拋開入口處的人潮和混亂，一路走到最內部城外的山丘上，全程一覽無遺，即使在陰雨綿綿的這天，所有的房屋仍然顯露出飽和而鮮明的深紅色。
Also a world heritage site, the old town of Tallinn has a well-preserved wall and towers. It was more popular than Riga due to its proximity to Helsinki. Many tourists would take one day excursion from Finland to visit here. How touristy is it? As soon as you pass the main entrance, you will see a Chinese restaurant+hostel, with Chinese words, inside this "medieval European town".
A good location to spot the city is a hill at its back. The red roofs within the wall distinguish the old town from the rest of the city.
Rotermann Quarter, Tallinn, Estonia | 愛沙尼亞·塔林·Rotermann Quarter
和舊城只有一街之隔的Rotermann Quarter展現愛沙尼亞創新而瘋狂的一面，各種老舊建築都被翻新之後加上了更大膽前衛的延伸部分，在這裡面工作生活的人們想必有著類似的性格吧。
愛沙尼亞在科技業以新創公司眾多聞名，也是通訊軟體Skype的發明地。
Across the street from the old town, Rotermann Quarter, the innovation district, is filled with a drastically different atmosphere. Old buildings and warehouses are revitalized as office and apartment buildings. Estonia has had a start-up friendly culture for decades. The well-known communication software Skype was also invented here.
Port of Helsinki, Helsinki, Finland | 芬蘭·赫爾辛基·赫爾辛基港
在塔林一大早起來仍是煙雨濛濛，趕往碼頭確認往赫爾辛基的船班仍然正常行駛，預料總是暈船的自己大概會有一段痛苦的旅程，結果很意外的，整個航程風平浪靜，比前幾天在拉脫維亞坐的火車還要平穩，還能夠悠哉地在船上參觀拍照，一會兒就到了彼端的赫爾辛基。
下船處緊鄰舊市場（Vanha kauppahalli），滿滿的各種鮭魚陳列著，說明了這個國家和海洋有多麼親近。
The ferry from Tallinn to Estonia took only 90 minutes. It was a rainy and cloudy day, but the ferry operated as usual. I was worried about seasick, but the ride was surprisingly smooth, even smoother than the Latvian train I rode earlier. Viewing both Tallinn and Helsinki from the sea was an unexpected bonus.
Right next to the ferry terminal sits the Old Market Hall. The first thing that caught my attention was the dozen of variations of smoked salmon.
Churches, Helsinki, Finland | 芬蘭·赫爾辛基·教堂
芬蘭和三小國一樣，宗教改革之後就成為新教路德宗的勢力範圍，至今仍然有許多教堂景點（雖然大多數都只是景點，基督教信仰本身已經在這個社會差不多消聲匿跡了）。
Temppeliaukion（temple square）一般被觀光客稱為岩石教堂，教堂一半高度在地面下，保留原本岩石的開鑿面成為教堂的牆壁，理論上應該是個音響效果不錯的地方，無奈因為親民的€3門票價格，整個教堂內擠滿了觀光客而且相當吵雜，讓人不想在此久留。Kampin kappeli則安靜一些，即使坐落在市區大型商場中的廣場上，白色圓弧形的牆壁在喧嚷人潮中劃出一個特別的神聖空間。市區東邊的Uspenskin katedraali則是擁有渾厚形體與金色裝飾的東正教建築，說明了這裡曾經被俄羅斯影響的歷史。
每到一個教堂我都嘗試去詢問能否拿到一本芬蘭文的聖經，結果一路下來，竟然沒有任何一個教會有提供聖經。
Just like all Scandinavian and Baltic states, Lutheranism is the so-called primary religion Although nowadays only few percents of people go to church on Sundays, churches are still everywhere in the city. Temppeliaukion, also known as "The Rock Church", are the most popular. Half of the church was carved out of a bedrock. Due to its friendly admission (€3), it was filled with tourists, noisy and crowded. The oval shape church Kampin kappeli was more tranquil, secluding itself among several shopping centers in downtown. On the east side of the city, Uspenskin katedraali, an eastern orthodox church, sits on top of a hill. It reflects Finland's past history under Russian sovereignty.
I tried to ask for a Finnish bible from every church I went to. Unsurprisingly, none of these churches could provide one.
Streets & Trams, Helsinki, Finland | 芬蘭·赫爾辛基·街道與路面電車
赫爾辛基的路面電車是城市內的重要風景，不只對觀光客有吸引力，本身也仍然是城市內主要的運輸工具，而且即使在非上下班時間班次仍然相當密集，搭乘的人也非常多。每次看到歐洲城市完整而且使用率高的大眾運輸系統，都讓定居在美國的我相當羨慕（雖然說我所居住的波士頓已經是大眾運輸相對方便的美國城市了）。
在赫爾辛基的兩天，由煙雨濛濛開始，直到傍晚放晴，隔天更是豔陽高照。陽光下的街景配上湛藍海水怎樣拍都好看。
Trams always make a city more charming, and they are still a vital part of Helsinki's public transit network. The service is stable and frequent, even during the off-peak hours. The high ridership proved the system is truly part of Helsinkians' everyday life. As someone from the US, a thriving public transit system like this always makes me envious.
The late afternoon sun conquered the cloud and rain. The entire city became warmer and more inviting under the gentle sunshine. At the time I visited, the length of daytime in Helsinki was: 18 hours.
The Little Mermaid & Nyhavn, Copenhagen, Denmark | 丹麥·哥本哈根·小美人魚與新港
我旅行的原則之一就是一分一秒都不能浪費，回程在哥本哈根轉機的四個半小時當然也要徹底利用。因此，我一下飛機馬上搭火車一路衝到市中心，打算踩踩幾個最有名的觀光景點。
小美人魚旁的人潮多到讓我幾乎無法拍照，尤其是數量眾多的東亞某國旅客，靠近的程度讓人不敢恭維。於是我索性跑到遠處的堤岸上，用特別帶來的75-300mm鏡頭捕捉雕像被人潮簇擁的景象。
新港則是一般人對於哥本哈根既定印象的來源，大多數的旅遊照片都在此取景，色彩鮮豔的街屋正是哥本哈根的招牌景色。
During my 4.5-hour stopover in Copenhagen, I took a short trip into the city. The iconic little mermaid statue was overwhelmed by a large number of tourists, given its insignificant size and negligible location.
Nyhavn (namely "new port") has colorful shops and restaurants. Coupled with the channel and ships, it forms most people's stereotypical impression of Copenhagen.
當初決定要去，主要是因為覺得那裡好像觀光客比較少一些，加上物價在歐洲來講相對低廉，但去了之後才發現這些國家值得一去的理由太多了，若僅僅是為了避開人潮或省錢而去，那完全是低估了那裡豐富的文化底蘊與迷人風景。
The different "Baltic States"
After my Spain trip in January, I had been thinking about another Europe trip to some "less popular" countries. The Baltic States was soon chosen as my Memorial Day weekend destination, as these countries are less crowded and more affordable. Nevertheless, as I stepped on my trip, I quickly realized they possess much more than just relative tranquilness and low cost. Their cultural richness alone can make them a must-go in my list.
While calling it "the Baltic States trip", I actually dropped Lithuania (which is in the further south) and added Finland (which is not far from Estonia's capital Tallinn) due to my time constraint. In this album/blog, what I refer to as the Baltic States are: Latvia, Estonia, and Finland.
Vecrīga (Old Riga), Riga, Latvia | 拉脫維亞·里加·舊城
里加是拉脫維亞的首都，舊城區幸運的沒有受前蘇聯統治太大影響，保留了中世紀以來的面貌，走在街上彷彿每一間房子都有一個故事，每一棟建築都值得拍照；也是因為如此，作為一個世界文化遺產，大多數時間都是遊人如織的。但我拜訪的時候是個禮拜天的早晨，城裡各個角落不時響起教堂的鐘聲，多數遊客都還在沈睡，Livu Square裡的露天餐廳也多還未營業，僅有寥寥幾人，整個城區難得顯得清新幽靜。
Riga is the capital of Latvia, as well as one of the best preserved Medieval towns in Europe. The entire old town is an UNESCO-designated world heritage site. Many cathedrals, shops and houses have been there and unaltered since the thirteen century.
I toured the old town on a Sunday morning, when the entire city was still sleeping. Businesses were still shut down except few. The city was filled with bell sounds from cathedrals, reminding people that was a Sunday (although it only matters to very few of them).
Tram, Riga, Latvia | 拉脫維亞·里加·路面電車
路面電車是前蘇聯國家的代表性產物，也是吸引我來拜訪這裡的原因之一。
Tram is a typical byproduct of previous Russian and Soviet dominions, as well as a "must see" for me on this trip.
Centrāltirgus (Central Market), Riga, Latvia | 拉脫維亞·里加·中央市場
市場通常是窺見一個地方真實生活的最佳去處，當然也是飽餐一頓的理想地點。在烘培店前，看著那些美國絕對找不到的豐富口味，還有親民的價錢，一口氣買上十個似乎都不為過。
Wherever I go, I always like to check out public markets. There is no better place to observe the real life of a place than a market. Attracted by fancy (while incredibly cheap) pastries at a shop, I grabbed a few as lunch without hesitation.
13世紀的歐洲，萬人參與的戰爭便是大戰，路邊不起眼的小丘就能決定一個國家的興亡，這是當今被美化成童話場景的城堡最早的存在價值：防禦。當時的波羅的海並沒有完整的王國，而是在教會勢力進入之後，由當地主教與及所屬的兵力掌控，Turaida Castle就建於當時。
800年前所蓋的建築，現在當然已經毀壞不少，照片中所見的完整外觀是後來重修的結果。一旁蜿蜒的曲流則沒有改變，800年來仍然照著原本的樣貌緩緩流動著，彷彿已經看破了一切的政權更迭。
Turaida Castle played a vital role in defense in the thirteen century. Back then, it was a key spot that determined the fate of a nation. The castle had fallen into ruins in the next few centuries, and was restored as a tourist spot in early twentieth century, while the river next to it has stayed intact and silent over the course of 800 years.
Svētā Jāņa baznīca (Saint John Cathedral), Cēsis, Latvia | 拉脫維亞·塞希斯·聖約翰大教堂
過去對三小國不了解的我總以為這幾個國家的主要宗教和俄羅斯一樣是東正教（Orthodox），一直到真正抵達之後，才發現其實在俄羅斯的勢力增強之前，影響這些國家最鉅者是日耳曼人和瑞典人。因此在16世紀的宗教改革風潮橫掃歐洲之後，三小國也和北歐與德國一樣，成為第一波轉為基督教（新教，Protestantism）的國家，教派是路德宗（Lutheran），也就是現在慣稱的信義會。
即使轉變成了基督教，這裡的教會仍然沿用著過去屬於羅馬教廷時期的傳統，信仰的中心依然是城鎮中心的一座大教堂，主教的制度也依然存在，但教堂不大多不像南歐那樣飛簷畫壁，反而已斑駁泛黃的外牆、模糊素色的玻璃說明它們的歷史。
喔，對了，還有另外一點是三小國和北歐國家很像的：他們都是歷史上最早轉變成基督教的國家，今天則都是全歐洲教會出席率最低的國家。
You may wonder as I had: what is the primary religion/denomination of Latvia? Orthodoxy? Catholicism? The answer is: Protestantism, and more specifically, Lutheranism.
Before Russia gained its power few centuries ago, Latvia was mostly influenced by German and Scandinavian cultures. As a result, soon after Martin Luther led a great number of German churches to depart from Roman Catholicism, the churches in Lativia followed and formed their own state church, Evangelical Lutheran Church of Latvia.
Unlike the cathedrals with magnificent relief and stain glass in southern Europe, churches here look aged and ragged, although the bell towers are as tall as those elsewhere. Sadly, those earliest Protestant countries are now nations with the lowest church attendance.
晚餐：鱒魚佐馬鈴薯泥；早餐：各式各樣的香腸和燻肉。
Dinner: trout, served with mashed potato; breakfast: various sausages and smoked meats.
Cēsis Castle, Cēsis, Latvia | 拉脫維亞·塞西斯·塞西斯城堡
塞西斯城堡和前面的Turaida Castle以及聖約翰大教堂一樣，都是十三世紀的作品，也都經歷過數次戰亂。在二十世紀前期，已經傾圮的城堡被認為有歷史和觀光價值，因此重新補強並且重建缺失部分。
這個城堡的旅遊體驗相當獨特，不像Turaida那樣碉堡裡還有照明和空調，這裡什麼都沒有而且一片漆黑，每個遊客進入前會拿到一盞蠟燭燈，然後在沒有任何導覽人員陪同下自己摸黑進入碉堡之中穿梭。當天早上我是第一個進入城堡的遊客，說實在剛開始真的有點毛毛的，但仔細想想，當年使用這座城堡的人們不也是這樣生活的嗎？習慣了黑暗之後反而覺得還挺好玩的。
Cēsis Castle functioned similarly as Turaida Castle, and was restored for the same purpose. A memorable experience of the castle visit is: there is no light inside. You have to navigate the dark rooms and spiral stairs with a candle provided by the castle museum. While feeling creepy in the beginning, I soon realized that was the best way to explore the castle, as what people centuries back would do.
Railway Station, Valga, Estonia | 愛沙尼亞·Valga·火車站
我搭著無空調、帶有直落式廁所的火車一路向北，來到這個拉脫維亞和愛沙尼亞的交界處。如同所有申根區（Schengen Area）內的國家邊界，這裡是沒有邊境檢查的，甚至看不出這裡是兩個國家的交界處（除了兩國的火車外觀不太一樣之外）。一個島式月台，一邊停著載著我到這裡的拉脫維亞火車，另一邊停著我將要搭上的愛沙尼亞火車，五秒鐘內可以轉車兼出入境完畢。
在大城市以外的地方所見，大多數是標準中歐田園和前蘇聯工業化建物的混合景色。
A two-hour non-AC train ride brought me to the Lativia-Estonia border. Except a few small towns, the entire trip was with forest and farmlands. At the border town Valga, there is no border control. The Lativian train and the Estonian train would stop on either side of a platform. Going from one country to another simply means to walk across the 2-meter wide platform.
Chimneys, cargo trains and warehouses are relics of the Soviet industrialization.
Tartu, Estonia | 愛沙尼亞·塔爾圖
塔爾圖是愛沙尼亞東南方的大學城，也是個建築充滿日耳曼風格影響的老城，位在市中心的Town Hall色調相當溫暖而熱情，（也正好是我最喜歡的粉紅色，哈哈。）
塔爾圖大教堂（Tartu toomkirik; Tartu Cathedral）是歐洲知名教堂中的異類，它在十六世紀因為宗教改革（Protestant Reformation）而被當時反對羅馬教廷的新教徒摧毀之後，就一直沒有重建，僅有原本神壇所在的圓弧部分被改建為大學的圖書館，其他部分則繼續以雄偉的廢墟之姿吸引觀光客。
As a college town, Tartu is vibrant and neat. German influence can be observed in its architecture. Particularly, I really like the pick town hall (which is my favorite color) standing at the center of the old city.
Tartu cathedral has stayed as a ruin since the sixteen century, when it was destroyed by Protestants during the reformation. The front sanctuary was later renovated as a university library, while the rest of the building stay uncovered and weathered, and became an iconic symbol of this city.
Rahva Raamat, Tartu, Estonia | 愛沙尼亞·塔爾圖·人民書店
這是一家愛沙尼亞的連鎖書店，也是我用來打發晚上時間的地方。不像美國那些書越來越少、人潮越來越冷清的Barnes & Noble，這裡的書店可是活躍的很，內部還充滿著獨樹一格的裝飾。
Unlike the only remaining US-nationwide bookstore Barnes and Noble, the Estonian equivalent (Rahva Raamat, which means "people's bookstore") is still vibrant and full of books and arts. Here I started looking for Estonian maps and children books, which I could bring back as souvenirs.
Eesti Vabaõhumuuseum (Estonian Open Air Museum), Tallinn, Estonia | 愛沙尼亞·塔林·露天博物館
這裡應該是最能讓觀光客了解愛沙尼亞傳統生活以及各地差異的地方了。園區很大，收藏了來自全國各地的數十棟民居，全部逛一圈下來至少得步行4公里。許多民居內都有穿著傳統服飾的當地人幫忙維護和解說。一路看下來很快就能夠發現各地的差異：以農牧業為主的內陸民房通常相當寬闊，漁業為主的海島上則多是狹促且帶有防風牆的斗室。
The next morning, I rode an early morning train to Tallinn. The train in Estonia was fast and reliable, but my first impression of Tallinn was not quite positive: there was no place to buy the transit card at the central station, and the only place I could get it is at an unnoticeable vending booth across street.
After a 30-minute delay due to the ticket problem, I arrived at the Estonian Open Air Museum. The specious park possess residences collected from all over the country. An walk-through trip is longer than 4 km. Here you can see some interesting contrasts - for example, the island houses are packed and encircled by stone walls, whereas the inland farm houses are more spaced.
Paldiski, Estonia | 愛沙尼亞· Paldiski
帶著對於前蘇聯樣板建築的好奇心，我搭火車來到這個曾是「民人禁入」的軍事基地的小城。蘇聯在這裡建立基地，為的是獲得波羅的海的制海權。即使脫離前蘇聯已近30年，所有的建築仍然保持著當時呆板乏味的色調，即使是新開的餐廳，竟然都只敢在玻璃上貼上白底黑字的幾個字母，不知道是因為怕破壞地景的協調性，還是在這裡住久了審美觀也改變了。
Paldiski is not really a tourist destination, but I decided to go in search for the former Soviet monotone architecture. The town was once an forbidden city - a navy base, where the Soviet Union accessed to the Baltic. Surprisingly almost 30 years after the dissolution of the Soviet Union, the entire city was still monotonous and depressing. Even a sushi restaurant is only marked by five black-and-white single-letter posters on the window.
Old Town, Tallinn, Estonia | 愛沙尼亞·塔林·舊城
和里加舊城一樣名列世界遺產，差異之處在於這裡的城牆和碉堡保存得更加完整，也因為相當接近芬蘭赫爾辛基，觀光化的程度更高一些。從主要入口一進入，右邊馬上出現中文招牌，是家賣川菜的餐館兼專做中國遊客生意的民宿。拋開入口處的人潮和混亂，一路走到最內部城外的山丘上，全程一覽無遺，即使在陰雨綿綿的這天，所有的房屋仍然顯露出飽和而鮮明的深紅色。
Also a world heritage site, the old town of Tallinn has a well-preserved wall and towers. It was more popular than Riga due to its proximity to Helsinki. Many tourists would take one day excursion from Finland to visit here. How touristy is it? As soon as you pass the main entrance, you will see a Chinese restaurant+hostel, with Chinese words, inside this "medieval European town".
A good location to spot the city is a hill at its back. The red roofs within the wall distinguish the old town from the rest of the city.
Rotermann Quarter, Tallinn, Estonia | 愛沙尼亞·塔林·Rotermann Quarter
和舊城只有一街之隔的Rotermann Quarter展現愛沙尼亞創新而瘋狂的一面，各種老舊建築都被翻新之後加上了更大膽前衛的延伸部分，在這裡面工作生活的人們想必有著類似的性格吧。
愛沙尼亞在科技業以新創公司眾多聞名，也是通訊軟體Skype的發明地。
Across the street from the old town, Rotermann Quarter, the innovation district, is filled with a drastically different atmosphere. Old buildings and warehouses are revitalized as office and apartment buildings. Estonia has had a start-up friendly culture for decades. The well-known communication software Skype was also invented here.
Port of Helsinki, Helsinki, Finland | 芬蘭·赫爾辛基·赫爾辛基港
在塔林一大早起來仍是煙雨濛濛，趕往碼頭確認往赫爾辛基的船班仍然正常行駛，預料總是暈船的自己大概會有一段痛苦的旅程，結果很意外的，整個航程風平浪靜，比前幾天在拉脫維亞坐的火車還要平穩，還能夠悠哉地在船上參觀拍照，一會兒就到了彼端的赫爾辛基。
下船處緊鄰舊市場（Vanha kauppahalli），滿滿的各種鮭魚陳列著，說明了這個國家和海洋有多麼親近。
The ferry from Tallinn to Estonia took only 90 minutes. It was a rainy and cloudy day, but the ferry operated as usual. I was worried about seasick, but the ride was surprisingly smooth, even smoother than the Latvian train I rode earlier. Viewing both Tallinn and Helsinki from the sea was an unexpected bonus.
Right next to the ferry terminal sits the Old Market Hall. The first thing that caught my attention was the dozen of variations of smoked salmon.
Churches, Helsinki, Finland | 芬蘭·赫爾辛基·教堂
芬蘭和三小國一樣，宗教改革之後就成為新教路德宗的勢力範圍，至今仍然有許多教堂景點（雖然大多數都只是景點，基督教信仰本身已經在這個社會差不多消聲匿跡了）。
Temppeliaukion（temple square）一般被觀光客稱為岩石教堂，教堂一半高度在地面下，保留原本岩石的開鑿面成為教堂的牆壁，理論上應該是個音響效果不錯的地方，無奈因為親民的€3門票價格，整個教堂內擠滿了觀光客而且相當吵雜，讓人不想在此久留。Kampin kappeli則安靜一些，即使坐落在市區大型商場中的廣場上，白色圓弧形的牆壁在喧嚷人潮中劃出一個特別的神聖空間。市區東邊的Uspenskin katedraali則是擁有渾厚形體與金色裝飾的東正教建築，說明了這裡曾經被俄羅斯影響的歷史。
每到一個教堂我都嘗試去詢問能否拿到一本芬蘭文的聖經，結果一路下來，竟然沒有任何一個教會有提供聖經。
Just like all Scandinavian and Baltic states, Lutheranism is the so-called primary religion Although nowadays only few percents of people go to church on Sundays, churches are still everywhere in the city. Temppeliaukion, also known as "The Rock Church", are the most popular. Half of the church was carved out of a bedrock. Due to its friendly admission (€3), it was filled with tourists, noisy and crowded. The oval shape church Kampin kappeli was more tranquil, secluding itself among several shopping centers in downtown. On the east side of the city, Uspenskin katedraali, an eastern orthodox church, sits on top of a hill. It reflects Finland's past history under Russian sovereignty.
I tried to ask for a Finnish bible from every church I went to. Unsurprisingly, none of these churches could provide one.
Streets & Trams, Helsinki, Finland | 芬蘭·赫爾辛基·街道與路面電車
赫爾辛基的路面電車是城市內的重要風景，不只對觀光客有吸引力，本身也仍然是城市內主要的運輸工具，而且即使在非上下班時間班次仍然相當密集，搭乘的人也非常多。每次看到歐洲城市完整而且使用率高的大眾運輸系統，都讓定居在美國的我相當羨慕（雖然說我所居住的波士頓已經是大眾運輸相對方便的美國城市了）。
在赫爾辛基的兩天，由煙雨濛濛開始，直到傍晚放晴，隔天更是豔陽高照。陽光下的街景配上湛藍海水怎樣拍都好看。
Trams always make a city more charming, and they are still a vital part of Helsinki's public transit network. The service is stable and frequent, even during the off-peak hours. The high ridership proved the system is truly part of Helsinkians' everyday life. As someone from the US, a thriving public transit system like this always makes me envious.
The late afternoon sun conquered the cloud and rain. The entire city became warmer and more inviting under the gentle sunshine. At the time I visited, the length of daytime in Helsinki was: 18 hours.
The Little Mermaid & Nyhavn, Copenhagen, Denmark | 丹麥·哥本哈根·小美人魚與新港
我旅行的原則之一就是一分一秒都不能浪費，回程在哥本哈根轉機的四個半小時當然也要徹底利用。因此，我一下飛機馬上搭火車一路衝到市中心，打算踩踩幾個最有名的觀光景點。
小美人魚旁的人潮多到讓我幾乎無法拍照，尤其是數量眾多的東亞某國旅客，靠近的程度讓人不敢恭維。於是我索性跑到遠處的堤岸上，用特別帶來的75-300mm鏡頭捕捉雕像被人潮簇擁的景象。
新港則是一般人對於哥本哈根既定印象的來源，大多數的旅遊照片都在此取景，色彩鮮豔的街屋正是哥本哈根的招牌景色。
During my 4.5-hour stopover in Copenhagen, I took a short trip into the city. The iconic little mermaid statue was overwhelmed by a large number of tourists, given its insignificant size and negligible location.
Nyhavn (namely "new port") has colorful shops and restaurants. Coupled with the channel and ships, it forms most people's stereotypical impression of Copenhagen.
Glaciers, Greenland | 格陵蘭·冰河
回程的飛機上正整理著照片，看到娛樂系統上的飛行地圖發現正好擦過格陵蘭的海岸，外面天氣看起來不錯，如果從窗戶看出去會是什麼景象呢？於是我跑到逃生門旁，往外一看才發現不得了，一邊瘋狂拍照一邊慶幸自己有留意飛行路徑圖。
"Excuse me sir. You cannot stay around the emergency gate..."
"Oh sorry, I'll go back now..."
"Nope it's ok. I know it's beautiful. A few minutes is ok. Just don't stay here too long."
冰河，是這趟旅程的最後驚喜。當時的我萬萬沒有想到，它也即將成為我一個月之後下一趟旅程的主角。
During the flight back to Boston, while everyone else was sleeping, I noticed the location of the flight, and decided to check out what was outside the window. Then I spotted the spectacular ice shields an glaciers of Greenland.
Unexpectedly, glaciers became the primary theme of my next trip after a month.
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